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A Dutch Barge in France |
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my barge - Guest Testimonial |
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What guests wrote to their local newspaper about Barge Nilaya |
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Finding
‘Heaven’ in the heart of France
Together with a couple of friends, we took this year’s holiday enjoying exclusive use of the 24-metre 1922 Dutch-Barge ‘Barge Nilaya’ and cruising the beautiful Ardennes region between France’s Charleville-Mezieres and Dinant in Belgium. Rendezvousing with Barge Nilaya and English skipper and owner Kevin, was simplicity itself and our first night happened to be a pretty big one in France - Bastille Day. While dining outside on ‘Barge Nilaya’s foredeck, crowds had steadily gathered on both sides of the river Meuse and the dark skies soon erupted into waterfalls of colour as fireworks burst above us. Unlike hotel barges, ‘Barge Nilaya’ included us as active crew, allowing our optional indulgence in all aspects of shipboard life. This included shopping at boulangeries, patisseries, markets and local shops thus enabling us to refresh taste buds that UK superstores simply cannot reach. Lively interaction with all these masters of their craft turned the food shopping into one of the undoubted highlights of our cruise. This active participation also included assisting Kevin and his Canadian crew, Josef, to move his 82-tonne leviathan through canal and river locks – some only marginally larger than ‘Barge Nilaya’ herself, not to mention the added advantage of being able to tell the skipper where to go! Our
mornings started gently: knocks on the cabin door meant nice cups of tea
and coffee waiting on the shelf outside our en-suite double cabins which
were followed by leisurely continental breakfasts to welcome in days
that proved to be moveable feasts. The
River Meuse was never less than spectacular with densely wooded cliffs
that swept right down to the waters edge. Endless forests and small
riverside towns and hamlets, steeped in legend, provided wonderful
locations for mooring and great opportunities for hiking to viewpoints.
The one high above Montherme was particularly Wonderful, rewarding us
with breathtaking panoramic views over a 270-degree curve in the river
below. Cruising was relaxed, laid back and the pace so slow, any stress
got checked in at the gangplank on our first day! Barge Nilaya’
cruised just a few hours each day. This left most afternoons free to
explore new locales on foot or by the on-board bikes, or to sunbathe,
chat, read a book, enjoy a glass of wine or simply slip off for a snooze
after lunch. What little river traffic there was, stopped when the locks
closed, making evenings a wonderful time for us to absorb breathtaking
locations and wonderful waterside towns; we found ourselves watching
sunsets that invited long shadows to creep down the heavily forested
valley sides. The silence was at times almost overpowering and aboard a
large stable craft such as ‘Barge Nilaya’, we almost forgot that we were
afloat at all. She barely moved an inch and wavelets against her steel
hull provided unique rhythms that ensured the most wonderful dreamless
sleep. One particular night, we lay in bed with our skylight and
curtains wide open, to reveal stunning blankets of stars framed by the
pitch black forest around us. I hadn’t wondered at such stars since
walking deserted Goan beaches many years before. The
general calm of our week was momentarily punctuated by ‘Barge Nilaya’s
navigation through the Ham tunnel. This required every ounce of Kevin
and Josef’s concentration as they cautiously piloted all 24 x 4.5
metres of ‘Barge Nilaya’ through a half kilometre of darkness that on
occasion brought her wheelhouse close to the
tunnel roof. Although stressful for the crew, we revelled in all the
excitement. Givet
was a pretty little riverside town on the Franco-Belgian border
providing Moules-a-la-Mariniere by the cauldron. Our host had no
problems with impromptu parties, so here, together with a few fellow
boaters, laughter, drink, animated conversation and tall tales of the
‘high’ canals continued on the bow deck into the wee small hours.
Crossing the border between France and Belgium was a simple affair;
while Josef hoisted a Belgian courtesy flag on the mast and navigation
pendant from ‘Barge Nilaya’s bow, Kevin held a brief meeting with the
river authorities before steaming from a massive lock into the waterways
of Belgium. The Meuse had suddenly grown up a little here and we encountered far larger commercial barges and the waterside industry that
kept them busy. Dinant
was next, an interesting town just ripe for exploration. Our final
afternoon was spent riding a cable car to tour the immense
citadel perched high on rocks above the town. To reward such a fabulous
week, we treated Kevin and Josef to Belgian beer and a fine dinner
ashore. We were very sad to be leaving ‘Barge Nilaya’ after breakfast, but our sadness was tempered by the knowledge that the previous evening we’d decided to join her for another week, next year. Neither we, nor the skipper had any clue as to where ‘Barge Nilaya’ would be cruising at that time, but the one thing we did know was that, wherever she was, we’d be enjoying another fine week aboard a beautiful barge with Kevin’s wonderful hospitality to discover different reaches of the magnificent French waterways. Barry and Annett Moss enjoyed an interesting and informal bed and breakfast barge cruise aboard ‘Barge Nilaya’ during summer 2006
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Holidays on a bargeBarge CruisesAlsace Lorraine Barge cruiseBarge in BurgundyArdennes River CruiseFrench barge toursInformal barge holidays on the canals of France |
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JOIN
US. Our voyage of discovery continues through the European waterways. This
season Barge Nilaya is cruising Alsace-Lorraine including the magnificent cities of
Strasbourg and Nancy and revisiting the magical River Meuse through the Ardennes
to Belgium. French
canal cruises on luxury hotel barges, French Waterways, French waterways, hotel
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we briefly return to Champagne through the intensely rural Canal des
Ardennes before plunging south through the Vosges to explore the wine and food
lovers paradise known the world over as Burgundy and Franche-Comte. Oh yes! I
can taste it already.... An awesome cruising season with oodles of places to
discover, new regional cheeses to savour and an abundance of fabulous wines to
taste. It would be great to see you aboard....
THREE
DISTINCTLY DIFFERENT FLAVOURS. Our three spectacular cruising grounds are
Champagne / Ardennes in the north, Alsace-Lorraine in the centre and
Franche-Comte / Burgundy in the south. Imagine each of these areas as a 'hub'
from which our separate cruising plans (LEFT) radiate out. Having 'hubs' offers
distinct advantages in providing the flexibility to adjust dates and routes to
fit your precise needs. You might wish for example, to combine two or more of
our routes or cruise a particular route on different dates from those shown on
the left. In France they say, 'Pas de Problem!' which means NO PROBLEM to you
and I! If you don't see what you want listed, simply Email your hearts desire
and I'll do my best to see if I can accommodate it.
TOTAL
FLEXIBILITY. Barge Nilaya and I are completely flexible in our movements and the plan
shown on the left is more of an outline than being cast in stone. The earlier
you reserve your space, the more flexibility I can offer.
SAVE
A LITTLE MONEY TOO. You'll also save 10% if you book before the end of February.
That saves you about $473 US dollars for a group of four for a week, which would
certainly buy a lot of wonderful bottles of wine. Drinkable wine starts in
France at about $3 US dollars a bottle!
FULL
OF SURPRISES. It's important to remember that Barge Nilaya is my beautiful 'cruising'
home and NOT a hotel barge. We don't operate to any fixed schedules and
overnight moorings are never guaranteed for us. We muck in and have a wonderful
vacation together. The freedom and fun we'll have is amazing and each and every
day will be full of surprises.
Just
read what some of our guests had to say...
SOMETHING
A LITTLE BIT SPECIAL? How would you like to Barge Charter Barge Nilaya for the whole season
or long period and let us cruise where and when you want. Maybe planning that
'big' trip and inviting different friends or family to join you as guests as you
cruise through France?
Do
you enjoy cycling or walking? What about having us move Barge Nilaya between
locations while you walk or cycle in between them? We could even have dinner
ready for you on your return each evening...
Can
I tailor make a bespoke barge cruise for you? You tell me what you want, for how
long and what you'd like to do / see. I'll do the rest. EVERYTHING is possible
aboard my barge!
You
need only to Email or Call me...
Epinal
is a pleasant Vosges town offering good shopping, a wide selection of cafes,
bars and restaurants together with museums and the world famous Imagerie
d'Epinal. The Cite de l'Image museum has an outstanding collection of over
23,000 17th-20th century prints and woodcuts (print blocks) from all over
France. Epinal is surrounded by forests opening up endless possibilities for
walking, cycling and off road mountain biking. It's also a great place to eat
out. The gorgeous park like setting of the Port d'Epinal offers Barge Nilaya a
friendly mooring during the cold Vosges winter.
During
the course of the week Barge Nilaya cruises a variety of different scales of waterway.
We travel the broad uppermost reaches of the mighty Moselle encountering 1500
tonne scrap barges en route to the steel works at Neuves-Maisons and possibly
even share a giant ecluse (lock) with one. It's moments like this when you
realise how small Barge Nilaya is!
Parts
of the Moselle are heavily wooded offering magnificent cruising, particularly
the stretch overlooked by the impressive 12th century hilltop village of
Liverdun where I hope to moor Barge Nilaya up for the night. This will be subject to
mooring space being available.
In
complete contrast to the wide Moselle, we also cruise the beautiful, narrow and
mostly rural Canal des Vosges passing through gorgeous tree lined stretches of
meandering canal, small villages and overnighting in lovely quiet 'wild' mooring
locations, ripe for your exploration by ships bike or on foot.
Barge Nilaya
moors right in to heart of the stunning city of Nancy, a short walk or tram ride
away from Place Stanislas. An architectural gem of a central square created in
1750 and recently fully restored by UNESCO as a breathtaking world heritage
monument.
Nancy's
old town was founded in the 11th century but transformed in the 18th by
Stanislas Leczinski, Duke of Lorraine. It is a masterpiece of 18th century town
planning. The opportunities to dine out are vast so it’s definitely your best
course of action!
Barge Nilaya
moors right in to heart of the stunning city of Nancy, a short walk or tram ride
away from Place Stanislas. An architectural gem of a central square created in
1750 and recently fully restored by UNESCO as a breathtaking world heritage
monument. Nancy's old town was founded in the 11th century but transformed in
the 18th by Stanislas Leczinski, Duke of Lorraine. It is a masterpiece of 18th
century town planning. The opportunities to dine out are vast so it’s
definitely your best course of action!
Every
day will see us rise early to get in the maximum enjoyable cruising as we
explore the mighty Moselle as far as we can get into Germany in the time we
have. We'll be visiting Metz and possibly Trier but the further we cruise the
more we will see.
If
I have no booking for the following week, it is likely that we will reach the
junction with the Rhine before turning back. We might even branch off down the
Sarre River and back into France through the back door again turning left across
to Strasbourg
It
will be a complete voyage of discovery.
Barge Nilaya
moors right in to heart of the stunning city of Nancy, a short walk or tram ride
away from Place Stanislas. An architectural gem of a central square created in
1750 and recently fully restored by UNESCO as a breathtaking world heritage
monument. Nancy's old town was founded in the 11th century but transformed in
the 18th by Stanislas Leczinski, Duke of Lorraine. It is a masterpiece of 18th
century town planning. The opportunities to dine out are vast so it’s
definitely your best course of action!
The
33-kilometre summit level between Arzviller and the sixteen-metre drop
Rechicourt-le-Chateau ecluse allows lock free cruising through reservoirs and
dense forest belonging to the 'Parc regional de Lorraine'. The Lorraine scenery
is much more gentle than that of the Vosges Zorn valley.
With
luck we'll have time to explore some of the now abandoned and empty ecluses by
either bike or on foot. These offer quite a spectacle still being complete with
their lock keepers cottages, narrow gauge rail tracks and lock gates. Below the
lift the Marne-au-Rhin travels nearly three kilometres underground through the
Arzviller and Niderwiller tunnels.
Cruising
takes us through a stunningly rural section of Alsace-Lorraine. Villages and
towns crammed with half-timbered Alsatian buildings bedecked with tumbling
geraniums and floral displays. We take Barge Nilaya through the spectacular and
thrilling 'St-Louis-Arzviller Inclined plane', a wonder of 1960's engineering
that replaced seventeen locks and using counterbalanced weights lifts an 850
tonne trough of water with you, me and Barge Nilaya floating inside, sideways up the
side of a cliff! The views over the forests of the steeply sided Zorn valley are
wonderful from here.
The
beautiful Alsatian town of Lutzelbourg is overshadowed by its medieval castle
and Saverne, full of half-timbered houses and the huge summer palace of Cardinal
Louis-de-Rohan, opposite which we hope to moor. Ruined castles dot hilltops high
above where we cruise, one such ruin commanding views through the
'Col-de-Saverne' as far as Strasbourg. Chateau-de-Haut-Barr or 'Eye of Alsace'
is however, at least a five-kilometre hike from our proposed mooring. Thursday
morning hopefully gives us the chance for an early look around the towns weekly
market before departure.
Strasbourg
is known as 'the crossroads of Europe' and one home to the European Parliament.
It's a cosmopolitan city that oozes charm particularly in the 'old town' known
as 'la petite France'. Strasbourg offers an excellent mix of terrific shopping,
great sightseeing and huge choice of tasteful restaurants. The magnificent
Notre- Dame cathedral is a must see and even though you're on a barge cruise, I
thoroughly recommend taking the Vedette tour through picturesque parts of the
city barges such as Barge Nilaya are no longer allowed to cruise. Our Strasbourg
mooring might be located a short taxi ride from the centre or in the
agricultural village of Waltenheim just outside the City.
Friday
is market day in Strasbourg and if you are due to depart Barge Nilaya after breakfast,
you are welcome to leave bags aboard and pick them up later in the day.
Barge Nilaya
moors right in to heart of the stunning city of Nancy, a short walk or tram ride
away from Place Stanislas. An architectural gem of a central square created in
1750 and recently fully restored by UNESCO as a breathtaking world heritage
monument.
Nancy's
old town was founded in the 11th century but transformed in the 18th by
Stanislas Leczinski, Duke of Lorraine. It is a masterpiece of 18th century town
planning. The opportunities to dine out are vast so it’s definitely your best
course of action!
During
the course of this week Barge Nilaya cruises a variety of different scales of
waterway. We travel reaches of the mighty Moselle River encountering huge 1500
tonne scrap barges en route to the steel works at Neuves-Maisons, possibly even
sharing some of the giant ecluses (locks) with them. Parts of this stretch of
the Moselle are heavily wooded and offer magnificent cruising, particularly the
stretch overlooked by the impressive 12th century hilltop village of Liverdun
where I hope to moor up for the night, subject to space being available.
We'll
stop for lunch on what we affectionately know as 'Picnic Island’, cruise
through the 500-metre Foug tunnel and moor up at a wild location on the towpath
near the pretty village of Pagny-sur-Meuse, which is a great place for a
barbeque! Alternatively you can wander off into the village where a pleasant
restaurant awaits.
We
cruise close to the town of Commercy which is famed throughout the world as home
to the small sponge cakes known as Madeleines and my closely guarded secret
location is a truly beautiful wild location just a short walk from the villages
of Koeur-la-Grande and Koeur-la-Petite. Big and little hearts respectively. The
location certainly captured my heart the first time I moored here!
Unfortunately
amidst all that beauty and just short walk from Barge Nilaya, lies a small
unassuming monument on a ridge high above the valley stating that during the
first world war between 1914 and 1918, 60,000 men died at this spot for every
square metre of land that changed hands between France and Germany. Such a
tragic past for what is now such a beautiful spot. The Koeurs provide another
opportunity to dine aboard or enjoy a BBQ on the canal side in a perfectly
chosen spot that often benefits from unusually terrific sunsets. I usually ask
our guests to venture forth to the village epicerie (grocer) for baguettes in
the morning. The friendly proprietor has to be met to be believed!
In
the city of Toul we have a chance to admire the defensive walls and moats laid
out by Vauban in the eighteenth century plus view the intricately detailed
facade of the St. Etienne Cathedral built between the 13th and 16th centuries.
Toul is another place where I suggest guests dine ashore.
In
complete contrast to the wide Moselle, we also cruise the beautiful, narrow and
mostly rural Canal de la Meuse passing through gorgeous tree lined stretches of
meandering canal, small villages and overnighting in lovely quiet 'wild' mooring
locations, ripe for your exploration by ships bike or on foot.
We'll
moor on the outskirts for a short visit to the small but well kept town of St.
Mihiel as well as hopefully overnighting at yet another wonderfully wild
location. This spot is nearly always overgrown but wood supply and weather
permitting offers a great place to enjoy an impromptu camp fire under the stars
and the chance to put the world to rights until the wee small hours.
Verdun
is a city forever synonymous with the loss of about 1,000,000 lives in just one
year during the carnage, tragedy and bloodbath that was the First World War. But today
as European city of peace, is a cosmopolitan town with riverside bars,
restaurants and throughout the summer months, a superb series of concerts right
on the main quay. It's possible to visit all the main war monuments and
memorials from Verdun, such as the trench of Bayonets, Ossuary at Douaumont,
Citadel and villages that were simply never rebuilt after the war. Some 90 years
on, it is still unsafe to stray from the well-marked paths in the old battle
area.
The
tourist information office have a guided tour that operates by bus but during Barge Nilaya's last three visits, the commentary was only available in French. This
tour would need to be arranged for the day you depart or join Barge Nilaya but we are
happy to store your bags aboard until you get back. It must be booked at least
24 in advance. Friday is also market day in Verdun.
This
is another of my favourite cruising grounds. Charleville-Mezieres through to
Verdun or vice-versa. It offers some great towns to visit plus lovely rural
river and canal scenery in between. Charleville-Mezieres is a pleasant little
town laid out in the 17th century around the Place Ducale, reputed to be one of
the most beautiful squares in Europe
Sedan
offers an immense fortress to visit. In fact it's the largest fortress in the
whole of Europe and well worth the tour! We get the chance to wild moor at a
stunning picnic spot in the middle of nowhere and if the weather's good, there
really is no better spot for a barbeque. The small town of Stenay is home to the
European Beer museum. A most enjoyable place to visit!
The
village of Consenvoye offers the chance to walk to a thought provoking first
world war German cemetery before we cruise into the very heart of Verdun,
forever synonymous with the loss of about 1,000,000 lives in just one year
during the carnage, tragedy and bloodbath that was the first world war.
Today
as European city of peace, Verdun is a cosmopolitan town with riverside bars,
restaurants and throughout the summer months, a superb series of concerts right
on the main quay. It's possible to visit all the main war monuments and
memorials from Verdun, such as the trench of Bayonets, Ossuary at Douaumont,
Citadel and villages that were simply never rebuilt after the war. Some 90 years
on, it is still unsafe to stray from the well-marked paths in the old battle
area.
The
tourist information office have a guided tour that operates by bus but during Barge Nilaya's last three visits, the commentary was only available in French. This
tour would need to be arranged for the day you depart or join Barge Nilaya but we are
happy to store your bags aboard until you get back. It must be booked at least
24 in advance.
This
stretch of waterway is without doubt my favourite cruising ground due to the
breathtaking canal and river scenery it offers from beginning to end.
In
the book "Cruising French Waterways" by Hugh McKnight, he wrote of the
Meuse (Canal de l'Est) "It is a marvel of French bureaucracy that one of
the country's most attractive river navigations should be officially known as
the Canal de l'Est (Branche Nord)" He wrote further, "Now begins one
of the finest portions of river landscape in Europe." His comments refer to
the stretch of the Meuse from Charleville-Mezieres to the Belgian border. I
wholeheartedly agree.
Charleville
is a pleasant little town laid out in the 17th century around the Place Ducale,
reputed to be one of the most beautiful squares in Europe and Dinant dominated
by the bulbous tower of to the collegial church and its immense citadel high
above the town.
Cruising
on the Meuse between the two towns is never less than spectacular with densely
wooded cliffs sweeping down into the water, endless forests and small riverside
hamlets. The whole area is also steeped in legends such as the Quatre Fils Aymon
and Roches des Dames de Meuse.
Together
with breathtaking scenery, highlights will include mooring in beautiful 'wild'
locations, opportunities to hike up to viewpoints, cycle alongside the river,
cruise through 500 metre Ham tunnel and enjoy the pretty riverside town of Givet
on the Franco Belgian border. A great place to dine out!
If
you would like to cruise this section of waterway but the dates are not right
for you, please contact me. I may be able to adjust the programme due to our
being in that area for a number of weeks.
Charleville-Mezieres
is a pleasant city laid out in the 17th century around the Place Ducale, reputed
to be one of the most beautiful squares in Europe. It has a very cosmopolitan
feel. In complete contrast to the civilisation of Charleville, the stunning
Canal des Ardennes is a little like cruising up the Amazon in places, the
foliage having so overtaken the waterway's original boundaries. From Pont-a-Bar
the canal is predominantly rural from beginning to end and wild remote moorings
are the norm right through to Variscourt. Between the rolling fields and
forests, another highlight of this navigation is the Montgon flight of 27
ecluses (locks) that drop Barge Nilaya slowly between the towns of Le-Chesne and
Attigny. It's a lot of hard work for the crew taking up to seven hours to cover
what is little more than nine kilometres in distance. We aim to try and moor
half way down / up at the small village of Neuville-Day in order to enjoy a well
earned drink at the great little bar there!
Once
we arrive at the beautifully manicured rural mooring in Variscourt, a
two-kilometre walk brings you to a small unmanned railway halt, just twenty
minutes train ride from Reims. I don't choose to moor in the port at Reims
because although the city is very fine, its port is not due to the incredible
number of roads above, below and beside the moorings. What I prefer to do is
moor outside the city and take either a taxi or train to the centre.
The
magnificent city of Reims famed throughout the world for its involvement in the
Champagne industry! It is highly likely that we will visit the 'odd' Champagne
cave in town, possibly even forcing ourselves into enjoying the odd glass too?
Reims
Notre- Dame Cathedral is spectacular with a facade containing some 2300 statues!
Its 38 metre high nave has borne witness to the coronation of French Kings from
Clovis in 498 AD until Charles X in 1825. It's a wonderful city to explore at
your leisure.
This
will be Barge Nilaya's third season cruising the Canal des Ardennes, having traveled
it in 2006 en route to Reims, Paris and the Champagne region.
I've
decided to take Barge Nilaya sampling more of that wonderful bubbly stuff known as
Champagne!! Seeing as I am in Champagne it would be rude not to wouldn't it? I
have absolutely no itinerary whatsoever, but needless to say we will be starting
in Reims and visiting plenty of Champagne houses somewhere in between there and
Variscourt. It'll be a complete adventure...
Barge Nilaya
visited Champagne again in 2006 en route from central Paris. What fun we had... All
the below photographs were taken by me...
Epinal
is a pleasant Vosges town offering good shopping, a wide selection of cafes,
bars and restaurants together with museums and the world famous Imagerie
d'Epinal. The Cite de l'Image museum has an outstanding collection of over
23,000 17th-20th century prints and woodcuts (print blocks) from all over
France. Epinal is surrounded by forests opening up endless possibilities for
walking, cycling and off road mountain biking. It's also a great place to eat
out.
Our
cruise starts down the tranquil Epinal branch of the Canal des Vosges before
climbing a flight of fourteen locks known as the Montee-de-Golbey. Our route
follows narrow steeply sided picturesque cuttings barely wide enough for two
boats to pass and navigating the Canal des Vosges 'over the top' takes Barge Nilaya
across the watershed dividing north and southern France. Water from here area
flows either to the Atlantic Ocean or Mediterranean Sea. It's an intensely rural
route passing through densely wooded Vosges countryside and small villages.
Sometimes we moor in quiet 'wild' locations to soak up the wonders of nature.
This also provides great opportunities to BBQ and dine al fresco!
Part
of the route shadows a pretty section of the River Coney and at Pont-du-Coney
there is a popular beauty spot. If you fancy exploring, a 3-4km cycle ride will
bring you into the Roman founded spa town of Bain-le-Bains with its eleven hot
water springs.
The
once fortified Fontenoy-le-Chateau is a delightful little town set in a deep
valley. Its infinitely worthy of exploration and has I understand, a population
that's 30% Dutch. The church is well worth a visit.
Selles
is a pretty village complete with a bar and local cheese producer, which I hope
to moor in or near.
Instead
of the wonderful woodland encountered between Epinal and Corre, the River Saone
offers the contrast of broad pastureland and meadow through to arrival in
Port-sur-Saone.
This
waterway offers wonderful opportunities to walk or cycle between ecluses,
(locks) on the first couple of days
From
Port-sur-Saone, Barge Nilaya cruises a particularly lovely section of the Petite Saone
bounded by deep woods and pastureland. An unusual feature on a river, we travel
through not one but two river tunnels, namely those of St- Albin and Savoyeux
and pass the sleepy hamlet of Rupt-sur-Saone with its turreted chateau peering
through trees over the village and river across the fields that separate us.
Beyond
Charentenay we encounter lovely scenery but the panorama that waits below Ray-sur-Saone
ecluse will be one of the highlights of the trip. With luck, we'll also spot the
typically Burgundian tiled roof of Ray-sur-Saone's church and stunning chateau.
Gray
is the first sizeable town we encounter but with luck we'll aim to moor at
Mantoche with its truly beautiful chateau right down by the riverside. It's a
lovely spot for a barbeque! From here towards the junction at St-Symphorien, the
scenery is pastoral. with another possible overnight being the town of Auxonne
with ruined riverside turrets and interesting 15th century buildings at
its heart. Alternatively, we might choose to moor wild on the Canal du
Rhone-au-Rhin.
Dole
is a busy little gem of a town with a fascinating historic quarter full of
narrow alleyways and fifteenth century houses and courtyards. The town has a
lovely feel about it and it’s a nice place to enjoy a cool beer or glass of
local Jura wine at an outdoor cafe. It's also the birthplace of the
world-renowned immunologist, Louis Pasteur. A short taxi ride away from Dole is
the Chateau d'Arlay with its lovely gardens.
The
canal outside Dole is shrouded by huge plane trees, which give it a feel not
unlike, that experienced on the French barge vacation. We navigate a mixture of canal
and river and if possible will moor at Osselle to try and visit its caves. This
might involve hiring a taxi. We go through the 185m Thoraise Tunnel and
encounter high wooded cliffs crowned by the remaining tower of the Chateau de
Montferrand.
In
Besancon, the capital of Franche-Comte, we will more than likely tie up under
the King's tower of Vauban's Citadel. Its a great place to explore on foot and
offers tremendous views across the River Doubs. Inside is a museum devoted to
the French Resistance and the many Nazi atrocities or WWII. Besancon has some
nice restaurants and in its old town, lovely buildings, some ornately finished
with decorative ironwork dating back to the seventeenth century. If you love
clocks and timepieces, then visits to the 'Musee du Temps' and astronomical
clock near to St-Jean's Cathedral are a must.
This
week offers many wonderful opportunities to walk or cycle between
ecluses.
(Locks) Optional activities and side visits can be built into this route, such
as one very popular one. Ballooning!
A
lovely weeks cruising through some beautiful parts of the Franche-Comte and
Burgundy regions of France during which we'll visit major places along our route
such as Dijon, St-Jean-de-Losne, Dole and Besancon.
In
Besancon, the capital of Franche-Comte, we will more than likely tie up under
the King's tower of Vauban's Citadel. Its a great place to explore on foot and
offers tremendous views across the River Doubs. Inside is a museum devoted to
the French Resistance and the many Nazi atrocities or WWII. Besancon has some
nice restaurants and in its old town, lovely buildings, some ornately finished
with decorative ironwork dating back to the seventeenth century. If you love
clocks and timepieces, then visits to the 'Musee du Temps' and astronomical
clock near to St-Jean's Cathedral are a must.
Dole
is a busy little gem of a town with a fascinating historic quarter full of
narrow alleyways and fifteenth century houses and courtyards. The town has a
lovely feel about it and it’s a nice place to enjoy a cool beer or glass of
local Jura wine at an outdoor cafe. It's also the birthplace of the
world-renowned immunologist, Louis Pasteur. A short taxi ride away from Dole is
the Chateau d'Arlay with its lovely gardens.
The
canal outside Dole is shrouded by huge plane trees, which give it a feel not
unlike, that experienced on the french barge vacation. We navigate a mixture of canal
and river and if possible will moor at Osselle to try and visit its fabulous
caves. This might involve hiring a taxi. We go through the 185m Thoraise Tunnel
and encounter high wooded cliffs crowned by the remaining tower of the Chateau
de Montferrand.
At
either the beginning or end of our weeks cruise we'll enjoy ambling around the
city of Dijon. At its centre, a tangle of small streets such as Rue Verrerie beg
further exploration as do the 13th century Notre-Dame and St-Michel's churches.
Art lovers shouldn't miss the 'Musee des Beaux Arts' located inside the imposing
'Palais des Ducs' in Dijon's Place de la Liberation.
St-Jean-de-Losne
is the self-proclaimed waterways capital of France, lying as it does near the
junctions of no less than six major navigations. It’s a pleasant enough place
with a very 'boaty' feel, lovely town quay and a number of Marinas.
Between
Dijon and St-Jean-de-Losne lies the village of Longecourt-en-Plaine, which is
home to a magnificent Chateau right on the bank of the canal.
The
canal du Bourgogne or Burgundy canal is one of the most beautiful navigations in
the country. Combine this with Burgundy's reputation for fine wines and cuisine;
it's no wonder that this area is a magnet to visitors worldwide.
At
either the beginning or end of our weeks cruise we'll enjoy ambling around the
city of Dijon. At its centre, a tangle of small streets such as Rue Verrerie beg
further exploration as do the 13th century Notre-Dame and St-Michel's churches.
Art lovers shouldn't miss the 'Musee des Beaux Arts' located inside the imposing
'Palais des Ducs' in Dijon's Place de la Liberation.
Barge Nilaya
follows the Canal du Bourgogne through the peaceful Dijonnaise countryside of
the Ouche valley, the section near Pont d'Ouche reputedly being one of the most
beautiful in France. In places, poplar trees line the canal and fields
alongside, full with grazing white Charolais cattle. Where possible we will moor
overnight in or near villages such as picture postcard Ste-Marie-sur-Ouche,
Gissey-sur-Ouche, Fleury-sur-Ouche, La Bussiere-sur-Ouche, Pont d'Ouche and
Vandenesse.
At
either the beginning or end of our weeks cruise we'll enjoy ambling around the
city of Dijon. At its centre, a tangle of small streets such as Rue Verrerie beg
further exploration as do the 13th century Notre-Dame and St-Michel's churches.
Art lovers shouldn't miss the 'Musee des Beaux Arts' located inside the imposing
'Palais des Ducs' in Dijon's Place de la Liberation.
We
follow a perfectly straight section of the Burgundy canal through to its
junction with the River Saone at St-Jean-de-Losne. En route we pass and
hopefully moor at the village of Longecourt-en-Plaine, which is home to a
magnificent Chateau that overlooks the water.