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You'll join the barge in the gorgeous park like setting of the
Port d'Epinal. Saturday is market day in Epinal, so if you'd like to
arrive earlier, you are welcome to drop off your bags at the barge before
walking into town. Epinal
is a pleasant Vosges town offering good shopping, a wide selection of
cafes, bars and restaurants together with museums and the world famous
Imagerie d'Epinal. The Cite de l'Image museum has an outstanding
collection of over 23,000 17th-20th century prints and woodcuts (print
blocks) from all over France.
The city is surrounded by forests
that open up
endless possibilities for walking, cycling and off road mountain biking.
Epinal's also a great place to eat out. Because we are mooring in remote
locations for much of the week, I suggest you take the opportunity to dine
ashore on your first night, possibly splurging at the Michelin rated 'Relais
des Ducs de Lorraine' or any one of a number of excellent restaurants in
town. We can enjoy my 'welcome aboard dinner' later in the week.
Our cruise begins on
Sunday morning by following the tranquil Epinal branch of the Canal des
Vosges. We soon find ourselves working the barge through a flight of
fourteen locks known as the Montee-de-Golbey. Tonight we'll be mooring
miles from anywhere, high in the Vosges. Today's route, like much of this
weeks cruising offers fantastic opportunities to cycle or walk alongside
the barge. In fact, from day two, it's all downhill! You could probably
coast the whole way. Now that's my kind of cycling!
Navigating
the Canal des Vosges 'over the top' takes the barge through the watershed
dividing north and southern France. Water from here flows to either the
North or Mediterranean Sea. It's an intensely rural route passing through
extremely picturesque, densely wooded countryside and for the most part,
small villages. We'll be mooring in wonderfully quiet locations to soak up
the wonders of nature providing excellent opportunities to BBQ, dine al
fresco and explore new locales by bike or on foot. Much of the route
shadows the River Coney and on occasions the barge follows narrow steeply
sided cuttings barely wide enough for two boats to pass. The area is rich
with deer and wild boar. You never know, we might be lucky enough to see
some?
Monday
night's mooring is another super 'wild' spot where we'll self cater aboard
or BBQ on the canal side. We might find ourselves in the company of other
boats, and impromptu parties are not uncommon! A 10km return cycle could
take you to the Roman founded spa town of Bain-le-Bains. Alternatively,
enjoy a glass of wine and soak up the natural surroundings.
On
Tuesday we encounter the fascinating industrial village of La Manufacture
nestling in its sleepy valley setting. It started life as a tinplate
factory in the 18th century reaching a peak production of 5000 tonnes a
year. The owners grand home and church are surrounded by the manufacturing
buildings constructed in the 1700's. Unfortunately, due to lack of
suitable moorings, we'll have to cruise by. Should you wish to wander
round its parkland setting, you can return by bike later cycling the four
kilometres back along the towpath from our mooring in Fontenoy-le-Chateau.
The once fortified Fontenoy is another delightful little spot set in the
valley and the village and church are definitely worthy of exploration.
The place has, I understand, a population that's 30% Dutch.
After
an early start, Wednesday's a full days cruising through to the
agricultural village of Ormoy. In contrast to the the wonderful woodland
encountered between Epinal and Corre, 'La Petite Saone' offers the
contrast of broad pastureland and meadow through to our arrival in the
thriving town of Port-sur-Saone on Thursday afternoon. During our final
days cruise we pass by the ruined chateau of Conflandey sitting overgrown
on an island in the river.
Port-sur-Saone is a
nice little place and it's worth checking out the 18th Century St. Etienne
church. There is a good choice of restaurants so dining ashore might prove
of interesting after all those meals self catered aboard.
You are due to leave the barge
after breakfast on Friday, but it's market day in the town, so if
you want to have a look round, you're welcome to leave your bags aboard
and pick them up later in the day. The
journey from Port-sur-Saone to Paris (via Vesoul) takes around five hours
and Paris to Epinal as little as 2 hours 15 minutes. If arriving by car,
the rail journey back to Epinal takes about two hours from Port-sur-Saone.
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