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Barge Nilaya - The Article |
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What an author had to say after visiting Nilaya in Paris |
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Ex CargoMoving home at a snail’s pace
Kevin’s
dream of building a new life was finally realised aboard a 1922 ex cargo
barge cruising the waterways of France. JAMES RIVERS reports on how the
idea unfolded. Moored right under Paris’s Eiffel tower, Barge Nilaya occupied an enviable city centre location. Her proud 43-year-old skipper, Kevin explained how he came to be there. His decision to sell up and move overseas had roots in Thatcherite Britain. On Christmas day 1989 the family turkey wasn’t the only thing being stuffed. With an over filled rucksack, Kevin had readied himself for a serious bout of round the world travel. That
initial trip had taken two years to complete, but succeeded only in
making him ever more restless. “After diving in Papua New guinea and
circumnavigating Australia in a beaten up camper van, Britain seemed
rather dull when I got back” he says. Short spells of work provided
the means for further trips into Asia but as the eighties gave way to
the millennium, Kevin found he’d spent so much time wandering the
globe, his CV contained more holes than a piece of Emmental. Things had
to change, so retreating to India, nine months on a Goan beach provided
all the inspiration he needed. By selling his house and worldly
possessions, he found himself with nothing more than a clapped out
Peugeot 205 and modest wad sitting in the bank “It was a fantastic
moment and real opportunity to completely start afresh” he told me. Kevin had
never owned a boat before. For someone who hated spinach as much as he
did, buying an antique sea-going barge in Holland might have seemed
foolhardy at best and certifiable at worst. After months of fruitless
searching, almost by accident, he came upon the barge of his dreams.
“The minute I set eyes on Vitesse it was love at first sight. Feeling
certain there must have been some mistake, I remember waving the owner
aboard while I ‘phoned the broker. I was convinced that he’d either
got the price wrong or that I wasn’t looking at the right barge”. Originally
named ‘Jannetje’, she was launched in Woubrugge, Holland on 29th
August 1922. Renamed Vitesse and moved to Belgium in ’37, together
with many hundreds of other barges she had been requisitioned by
Germany’s Nazi government for the planned invasion of southern
England. After the war, she got repatriated and was still owned by
descendents of the family who’d originally commissioned her. Within two
weeks, all 82-tonnes of Vitesse had been lifted from the water,
thoroughly surveyed and after some minor repairs, found herself with a
new owner, proudly flying a red ensign and enjoying the new name,
‘Nilaya’. “The name change reflected so many happy years spent
travelling through India. While researching this madcap idea, the goal
I’d set myself had been to somehow create a little piece of heaven in
the heart of France. Nilaya means heaven in Sanskrit.” Purchasing
Nilaya was just the beginning. Owning, maintaining and cruising an
ancient eighty by fourteen foot leviathan with a 1950’s engine
required acquisition of vast amounts of knowledge covering a huge range
of subjects. “It was total immersion therapy but I wouldn’t have
missed it for the world. Talk about jumping in at the deep end”, Kevin
laughed as he told me. During the next two years and determined to reach his goal, Kevin completely rebuilt Nilaya’s interior and systems. Three double cabins each with en-suite bathroom, spacious dining saloon, well-equipped galley, generator and engine rooms, workshop, and comfortable wheelhouse. “It’s been bloody hard work particularly for someone who used to have to pay to get a light bulb changed,” he quipped as he guided me round Nilaya’s wonderful interior. It wasn’t
all work and no play. Amazingly Kevin found time to gain qualifications
necessary for piloting such a large craft safely. Kevin, Nilaya and his
full time crew Josef, have since clocked up over 3500 problem free
kilometres and transited in the region of eight hundred locks. “Nilaya
handles like a dream and as long as you take things slowly, piloting her
is much easier than you might think. Tunnels require a lot of concentration
because you’ve got little room to maneuver and on occasions her
wheelhouse gets perilously close to the rough-hewn roof. It can get
pretty exciting sometimes”. With much
of the hard work behind him, Kevin can now focus on more enjoyable
aspects of barge ownership. Allowing him to combine a love of cooking,
fine wine, entertaining and exploration, Nilaya provides the perfect
base from which to discover the very best France has to offer and those
possibilities are limited only by his imagination. Kevin has
the enviable ability to change direction at a whim, the views from his
windows every day, moor against Mediterranean beaches in summer, pick
grapes in Burgundy in the autumn or moor in the heart in some of
Europe’s finest cities. The freedom offered by France’s stunning,
mostly deserted water highways satisfies the nomad in him while at the
same time allowing him to extend a warm welcome aboard to friends old
and new. “It’s all about stress free living, fresh air, dining al
fresco, soaking up the natural surroundings and taking things slowly.
Very slowly! Location, location, after location!” He has a point.
Nilaya has
proven to be Kevin’s biggest adventure to date and at just 43 years of
age he’s achieved an independence most of us can only dream about.
During the winter months, he can be found exploring undiscovered parts
of his much loved spiritual home of Asia. Just before
I disembarked, Kevin showed me a picture he’d taken during the summer.
Nilaya was beautifully photographed in bright sunlight, cascading pots
of red geraniums, blue skies behind, happy healthy people populating the
deck, each with a glass of wine in hand and gazing out across undeniably
French landscapes. I could only agree that Barge Nilaya really was
‘Heaven’ in the heart of France.
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bustle and stress of the modern world. Each and every week, Nilaya offers her guest crew uniquely informal opportunities to experience an eighty two ton ex commercial cargo barge cruising through bea
Beautiful stretches of
some of Europe's most wonderful waterways.
Nilaya's
voyage of discovery continues in 2007, cruising Alsace-Lorraine including the
magnificent cities of Strasbourg and Nancy and revisiting the magical River
Meuse through the Ardennes to Belgium.
Oodles of new places to
discover, regional cheeses to savour and an abundance of new wines to
taste.
It
really is the
informal adventure you've yet to have...
Soak
up some seriously slow cruising, far from the madding crowd, aboard a classic
1922 luxemotor barge and my comfortable home Nilaya.
Join
her never-ending voyage of discovery through the river and canal navigations of
France, Germany, Belgium, the Netherlands and enjoy helping move a beautiful,
historic barge through a small part of the extensive waterways of Europe.
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Barging in France, burgundy canal, barge,
Informal,
fun, hands on barge cruising is what it's all about and although its preferable
to muck in to get the best from the experience, there will be loads of time to
relax as well.
Joining
Nilaya as guest crew makes you an active part of the team. You'll need to be
reasonably fit and able but above all willing to participate in all aspects of
shipboard life.
This
might include shopping for food at local markets, cycling off to find fresh
baguettes and croissants for breakfast, assisting in the galley, tidying up,
helping work the barge through locks, navigation, steering, and most
importantly, telling the captain where to go....
You'll
need to participate, make your own bed, have an open mind, great sense of humour
and accept that things can and will go pear shaped sometimes. If you arrive
aboard Nilaya with a positive mindset, you will quite simply have the time of
your life.
Once
aboard, I hope to indulge you in my passion for global travel, Belgian beer,
local wine, tasty regional cuisine and soaking up the ever-changing landscapes
that glide ever so gently past the barge.
Nilaya
offers most of the comforts of a home away from your home. Her two cosy cabins
can be arranged as either twin or double and both have private en-suite shower
rooms. She has a spacious saloon with big panoramic windows offering great
views, day or night plus a well-equipped galley.
Best
of all, Nilaya can only accommodate a maximum of four-guest crew so if you book
as a group of four, it'll be a little like having your own private barge...
It's
important to remember that Nilaya is not a hotel barge. Contributions from
guests provide for day to day running and most importantly, the large
maintenance fund keeping my 86 year old, 82-ton barge afloat!
Don't
hesitate to get in touch if I can be of any further assistance. New photographs,
links and information are being added to this site all the time and if you
subscribe to the email newsletter, I'll periodically let you know what's
happening.
Barge
Nilaya is my wonderful cruising home and I welcome you to her unreservedly. They
say that you only regret the things you failed to do in life? Just imagine
that adventure you've yet to have...
Nilaya
was built in 1922 with dimensions of 24 metres by 4.25 metres. Her height above
the water is 3.3 metres and depth below just 1.2 metres. She weighs in at a cool
82 tonnes and although throwing the occasional "wobbly", for the most
part handles like a dream.
Much
like a house, Nilaya has 230 volt electricity, flush toilets, oil central
heating, gas cooker, microwave, washer, dryer, satellite TV, in fact all the mod
cons. The main difference is that being a floating home, Nilaya has to provide
for all the power generation and water needs herself. You quickly learn to be
economical with how much power and water you use in order to sever the umbilical
chord that otherwise ties you to ports or harbours.
Being
economical allows the freedom to moor pretty much where and whenever you like,
for long periods, no matter how remote that location might be.
People
pay vast sums for lake or riverside properties with views of the water. Nilaya
beats them at their own game. It's actually on it and can change its view at a
moments notice!
She
was launched on 29th August 1922 as the motorschip "Jannetje". As was
common at the time, she was named after the owners’ wife and constructed by
the reputable ship builders, Boot de Woubrugge in Holland.
Originally
built with the now classic 26 horsepower Kromhout "Oliemotor" or
medium pressure heavy oil engine, it functioned well for nearly forty years
before being replaced by the present "modern" 5 litre Mercedes 321 in
the early 1960's.
Jannetje
was lengthened in 1927 in order to carry more cargo and carried stront around
Friesland and the Ijjselmeer region of the Netherlands until 1937, when she was
relocated to the major port city of Antwerp in Belgium.
Renamed
"Vitesse" on 9th September 1937, she continued carrying cargo in
Belgium until the Second World War intervened.
Along
with many hundreds of other barges, Vitesse was requisitioned by Germany's Nazi
government for the planned invasion of southern England or "Operation Sea
lion" as it was to be known. The
best thing about living on a barge is that you can have a different view from
the windows each and every day if you wish. You can moor quite near the Alps for
skiing in winter or next to the Mediterranean for swimming and beaches in
summer. You can moor in totally remote countryside or in the centre of many
great cities right on the doorstep of all the attractions. A barge offers a
giant mobile home par extraordinaire that can economically tootle up and down
the stunning and mostly deserted water highways of Europe.
Thankfully,
Operation Sea lion never took place and she survived the war, eventually being
returned to her owner by the General authorised for the Dutch reconstruction
department in Rotterdam.
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France, french Vitesse
was retired from commercial work in the early 1980's because her size and
capacity no longer made her commercially viable.
She
escaped being scrapped due to the quite exceptional condition of her incredibly
strong, close chined, riveted steel hull and beautiful counter stern and was
converted into comfortable living accommodation which provided a cosy,
permanently moored home until 2004 when I came upon her in Drachten in the
Netherlands.
Luckily
for me, her owner had fastidiously maintained Vitesse's mechanics, which were in
excellent condition considering that the barge had moved no more that one
hundred miles in the previous twenty years.
It
really was love at first sight and within two weeks I had Vitesse lifted from
the water, a thorough survey carried out on her hull, some minor plating work
done and signed on the dotted line in Groningen.
She
was renamed "Nilaya" on the full moon of October 2004. The name
"Nilaya" simply meaning, "Heaven" in the Indian
Sanskrit language. After so many years spent in India, I had now found my
personal Heaven.
Within
days of purchase I started cruising her around while at the same time taking
training that would lead to the qualifications necessary to pilot such a large
craft safely.
Barge
Nilaya's wheelhouse offers a tremendous vantage point from which to watch the
world go by.
This
all-important room provides 360-degree views aiding safe navigation as well as
housing the controls that navigate Nilaya.
Immediately
below the wheelhouse lies the 'heart' of our beast. A 5.1 litre, six cylinder
1950's Mercedes diesel engine which throbs away and propels our vessel at a hair
rustling six kilometres per hour! If, unlike me, you are lucky enough to still
have any!
To
say that the wheelhouse is 'pivotal' to the operation of Barge Nilaya would be
an understatement. The whole 24-metre ship quite literally 'pivots' on a point
directly below it.
When
turning clockwise (her preferred turning direction), Nilaya rotates in exactly
her own length, with the pivot point being right under her huge steering wheel.
Her
steering is surprisingly precise, responsive and provided by a cog, chain and
cable arrangement linking the wheel directly with the huge rudder five metres
astern.
Nilaya's
multi purpose wheelhouse allows year round use as a 'second saloon'. Its central
heating enabling T-shirts to be worn on even bitterest of winter nights. Minus
thirteen so far this winter...
The
wheelhouse is comfortably furnished, creatively lit and has a stereo system
suitable for being coupled up to an IPod or mp3 player.
Well-stocked
bookshelves contain a good selection of reading matter and you are most welcome
to donate any books you finish to our ever-growing onboard library.
The
centrally heated room is creatively lit and full of plants and vases of fresh
flowers that bring the scents and feel of the outdoors in.
Our
multi purpose dining table can seat up to six for cosy dinners aboard and a
corner cabinet contains Nilaya's second fridge in which you can store beer,
white wine, soft drinks and juices.
We
have a stereo music system that can be coupled up your mp3 player or play any
CDs you might bring with you. The satellite TV system works only where and when
we can get a clear signal from the satellite. If so we can receive BBC 1-4, ITV
1-4, CNN and more shopping channels you can wave a stick at.
Nilaya
has a well-equipped modern galley complete with espresso machine, microwave and
food processor.
The
gas oven, grill and four ring hob is perfect for rustling up your own self
catered dinner aboard and the double sink offering a spacious facility for the
washing up after it!
The
galley is a small but very functional, well-designed area overlooking the barges
saloon. It also has a large separating hatch for when the aromas get a bit too
appetising prior to the meal. This hatch also allows the crew to stealthily
prepare the breakfast things after you've slipped off to bed!
'Vitesse'
is one of Nilaya's two en-suite cabins and can be made up in either twin or
double arrangement. It enjoys good natural light and has a lot of stained pine
woodwork. The cabin has slightly restricted headroom on the way in and over the
head of the bed/s.
The
walls contain prints by the Indian artist Ravi Varma and come from the southern
state of Kerala.
Vitesse
has a large opening glass roof hatch and two opening portholes.
There
are wicker drawers for storage plus a wardrobe with hanging space. When the
cabin is arranged as a twin, both under bed spaces become useable providing
additional storage if needed.
Linen
and towels are provided and the cabin comes complete with electric fan,
hairdryer and plenty of 230-volt European style power sockets.
The
'Vitesse' stateroom takes the barge's second name that she was given when
transferring to work in Belgium from Holland in 1937.
Vitesse
has an ensuite shower room accessed by a private door from the cabin.
The
shower room has a large window, extractor fan, is spacious, bright and finished
in a natural wood, cork and neutral colour scheme.
There
is a large mirror, full size pedestal sink, electric flushing toilet and full
size ceramic shower tray with thermostatically controlled shower unit.
The
bow bench is a great place to sit and watch the world as you slowly float
through it.
Enjoy
a 'cuppa', read a book, get out the binoculars, the choice is yours. It's easily
the preferred spot while cruising!
If
the weather's good we'll often take breakfast, lunch and possibly even our
evening meal 'al fresco' on the bow bench. It's a great location for that
star or candlelit dinner!
Nilaya's
bow bench can seat up to eight people at a squeeze, so dinner parties with
people from other boats are not unknown!
It
has a parasol for shade if things get a bit too warm and has even been known to
sprout legs and move ashore if the surroundings look more conducive as a great
dinner location!
Nilaya's
original 1922 steel tender has been put to a great new use having been
christened "Herby". She supplies our galley with virtually all the
culinary herbs needed aboard throughout the year.
Chives,
rosemary, coriander, mint, spearmint, sage, chervil, basil, tarragon, mesclun
mixed salad leaves, mustard and cress all grow in profusion.
Fresh
'tender' herbs and salad, just when you need them.
In
addition to Herby, we also try to grow our own tomatoes and lettuce. 2007 will
see dramatic expansion of our onboard cultivations. (I hope!)
To
say that I love travel would be an understatement. Having enjoyed a good career
way back in the dark ages of Thatcherite Britain, I realised even then that
there had to be far more to life than the nine to five.
So
I set out to change things and boy did things change. First, I chucked in the
job, second, bought a backpack and third bought a plane ticket to India. After
wandering around the world that first time for nearly two years, I found that it
became ever more difficult to stay put at home.
Employment
masked the real reason I worked which was simply to replenish my bank balance in
order to head off again. The problem with this was that as the eighties gave way
to the nineties, gave way to the millennium, I had spent nearly all of it
wandering the globe.
Each
time I ran out of money and flew home, I found the UK ever more depressing,
increasingly dull, overtly threatening and mind bendingly expensive. All this at
a time when my lack of job "commitment" resulted in a CV that had more
holes than a piece of Emmental.
This
"leaky" resume provided ever more lack lustre employment
"opportunities" with the resultantly pathetic salaries that generally
went with them. Early in 2001, I was forced to take positive action!
Luckily
for me, I'd bought a house way back when they were cheap and calculated that if
I sold it and everything that wasn't bolted down, I might be able to pay back
the bank and with the residue buy a barge. By "barge" however, at that
time I had a UK style Narrowboat "barge" in mind.
While
searching on the Internet for suitable craft, up popped a plethora of English
narrowboats, but closer inspection persuaded me that they were, well, a bit too
narrow! Also, that the UK waterways were reaching breaking point in terms of
lack of maintenance and the weight of new boats being built. Coupled with this
was the frightening cost and distinct lack of pleasant moorings. I also decided
that maybe I needed something a little more exotic than the Trent and Mersey!
The
above picture demonstrates the huge difference in size between a UK narrowboat
and Dutch Barge such as Nilaya. What is doesn't show is that Nilaya is also over
twice the narrowboat's width!
Then
purely by chance I accidentally stumbled upon the picture of a stunning
"luxemotor Dutch barge". It was beautifully photographed in bright
sunlight with blue skies behind it, happy healthy looking people populating the
decks, each with a glass of wine in hand and gazing out across an undeniably
French landscape.
This
was more like it. Bigger barges than I'd ever dreamed of. A vast European
waterways network to be discovered and along with it, a Europe I had sadly
neglected in favour of more distant long haul destinations. I now had a plan and
a new mission in life... To enjoy a barge cruise on the canals of France! The rest as they
say is history....
My
personal passions lie in world travel, waterways, cycling, cooking,
entertaining, fine wines and socialising. If you combine this with my love of
history, nature and the wealth of stunning scenery that abounds in Europe, then
running informal barge cruises aboard my home; Nilaya became the only real and
wonderful choice.
...and
yes. "It really is heaven in the heart of France..." Come and see for
yourselves as guest crew.
Owning
and cruising a 24 metre barge requires acquisition of a tidal wave of knowledge
of a huge range of subjects covering everything from the specifics of cruising
on the continent, to finding the exact widget required for a specific flange on
a 1955 Mercedes 321 engine that Mercedes consistently tell me never existed and
that they never manufactured.
The
fact that I managed to locate copies of the engine's original owners
instruction manual and parts list not seeming to matter a jot to their denials!
Gaining
the qualifications to pilot such a large and heavy craft was both necessary and
important for safe navigation.
After
considerable study and a great deal of time spent aboard other owners barges
including a month doing nothing but learning ropes and mooring techniques, I sat
and gained piloting qualifications both in English in the UK and in French in
France! Quite an undertaking for someone who still has only rudimentary
knowledge of the language.
I
currently hold the UK Royal Yachting Association's 'INTERNATIONAL CERTIFICATE OF
COMPETENCE' together with the additional CEVNI endorsements that cover
navigation differences between the UK and European inland waterways.
In
addition I also hold the UK's 'MARITIME RADIO OPERATOR CERTIFICATE OF
COMPETENCE' for Short Range Radio (VHF)
At
considerable expense, I also gained the French 'CERTIFICAT DE CAPACITE, PENICHE
DE PLAISANCE' (PP) license which now qualifies me to pilot barges up to
39.5 x 5 metres.
The
best experience though is of the hands on, get out there and cruise variety. You
can learn all you like in the classroom, but it's out there where the real fun
starts!
Nilaya
has covered over 3500 km during the last couple of summer seasons which might
not sound much by car standards, but at 4-6 kilometres per hour plus the time
spent transiting the many hundreds of ecluses (398 locks during summer 2004-2008
alone) provided the real experience money can't buy.
If
you would like to spend some time aboard Nilaya learning about many of the
aspects of barge ownership, handling and how I learnt everything from scratch,
why not book yourself for an informal hands on cruise?
Nilaya
glides gracefully from place to place at the very sedate and relaxing speed of 4
miles an hour.
So
slow in fact that you can easily walk or cycle and get ahead of her. Speed is
not what cruising the European waterways and canals of France is all about. What
it is about is relaxation and leaving the stresses and speed of your normal life
very far behind.
Sucking
in the fresh air, soaking up the beautiful vistas and admiring the varied bird
life and natural surroundings as you glide so very gently through it.
Sometimes
we moor in towns, cities or small villages, but other times we more in places so
isolated that they are not reachable other than by boat.
Most
times neither Nilaya or anyone aboard has visited the places we arrive at or
cruise through. This makes it a real adventure. Both owner Kevin and his
crewmember are just as interested and excited about the new place as are you.
The
canals of France, much like those of the UK are a treasure trove of history.
Many have been in use since prehistoric times as trading routes although
commerce these days has sadly declined to the point where it has almost
vanished, particularly in France.
Signs
of the past are everywhere from the buildings, bridges and artefacts left
behind.
The
pace of life is slow and the waterways magnificent. The UK canals are like the
M1 motorway at rush hour compared to the tranquility that abounds when you go
barging over here.
Just
imagine. A beautiful barge with breakfast taken high on deck each morning
followed by cruising at a slow pace, a lovely light lunch followed by an
afternoon snooze followed by an afternoon stretch of the legs, maybe popping in
for a cold refreshing beer to quench the thirst before gearing up for a shower,
bank side barbeque or repairing to a local hostelry for your evening dinner.
After
such a tiring day you are sure to be in bed early. It's the fresh air and lack
of stress. Guests report that they've had some of their best nights sleep aboard
Nilaya.
A
typical day might begin by my gently tapping on your cabin door with a nice hot
cup of tea or coffee. Shortly, after refreshing showers, one or more of us heads
off on the bikes to the local boulangerie for day fresh breads and pastries.
A
leisurely continental breakfast then ensues, more often than not, enjoyed
outside on the bow bench. A feast of freshly brewed coffee, breakfast teas,
fruit juice, cereals, baguettes, croissants, pain au chocolat, ham, cheeses,
jams, yoghurt and maybe boiled eggs. Just what you need to set you up for the
day.